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Leather Clossary
Aniline (Dyed) Leather ∨
Natural Leather that has been finished using aniline, a colourless oily liquid. In modern terms aniline refers to leather has the colour added in the dye drum and has no pigmented surface coating
Antique Grain ∨
A method of aging a leathers appearance through the use of contrasting colour and the surface pattern of hollows, markings, and creases an antique leather is fashioned
Back ∨
The main portion of a hide, obtained by cutting off the two bellies
Blue Split ∨
Chrome tanned hide or skin which has been split into two or more layers
Bovine ∨
Relating or belonging to the genus of ruminant animals that includes cattle, oxen, and buffalo
Brushed Leather ∨
Leather that has the grain side lightly buffed to produce a velvet like finish
Buffed Leather ∨
Leather from which the top surface of the grain has been removed by an abrasive or bladed cylinder
Buffing ∨
The mechanical process which removes scars and scratches from hides
Butt ∨
The part of the hide after the bellies and shoulders have been removed
Butt Split ∨
The under layers, split from the butt of a cattle hide
Cattle Hide ∨
The outer covering of a fully grown bovine animal
Chamois Leather ∨
Soft pliable leather used for cleaning and polishing made from sheep or lambskin that has been tanned using oxidised fish or marine animal oils
Chrome Tanned ∨
Leather tanned using chromium salts as the base tannage
Combination Tanned ∨
The use of two or more tanning agents; chrome followed by vegetable (chrome re-tan), vegetable followed by chrome (semi-chrome), formaldehyde followed by oil (combination oil)
Corrected Grain Leather ∨
Leather that has been partially buffed then embossed to remove minor imperfections in the grain surface, the leather then receives a pigments coating
Crust ∨
Leather which has been tanned but not finished or "in the crust."
Curried Leather ∨
Leather usually vegetable tanned, which has been subjected to the currying process, i.e. a series of dressing and finishing processes applied to leather after tanning in the course of which appropriate amounts of oils and greases are incorporated in the leather to give it increased tensile strength, flexibility and water-resisting properties
Dermis ∨
The thick sensitive layer of skin or connective tissue beneath the epidermis that contains blood, lymph vessels, sweat glands, and nerve endings
Distressed ∨
A worn wrinkled look made by the application of wax before being tumbled, the tumbling causes a break in the wax were the leather flexes
Double Butt ∨
Commonly suede splits cut out of the centre cut
Drum Dyeing ∨
Full dye penetration is achieved when the hides immersed in dye and tumbled in a vat (drum)
Embossed Leather ∨
A raised leather print or pattern used in corrected grain upholstery or fashion leathers to create certain looks
Epidermis ∨
Anatomy the thin outermost layer of the skin, itself made up of several layers, that covers and protects the underlying dermis
Fat Liquor ∨
Used in the retan process to add to the handle (softness) of the hide
Fat Wrinkles ∨
Wrinkles in the leather caused by the animals natural fat deposits
Finish ∨
The Surface coating applied to the leather
Finishing ∨
Process used after tanning of the hide to create different effects such as embossing, pigmenting, lacquering, glazing, waxing, antiquing
Fluffed Leather ∨
See buffing
Full Chrome ∨
Leather tanned solely in chrominium salts
Full Grain ∨
Leather with the original grain intact, these hides are used for high grade Natural upholstery leathers
Glazed (finish) ∨
Leather which has a very bright or glossy appearance
Glutaraldehyde Leather ∨
Leather tanned with glutaraldehyde, usually in combination with other tanning agents, to make the leather more resistant to deterioration under moist conditions
Grain ∨
What is termed the grain of a leather is the patterns formed by the skins pores and growth marks
Grain Leather ∨
Leather with the original grain intact, these hides are used for high grade Natural upholstery leathers
Grain Split ∨
The outer (wool or hair) layer of a hide or skin that has been split into two or more layers
Hand ∨
The term used to describe the feel of leather
Leather ∨
Hide or skin which still retains its original fibrous structure more or less intact, and which has been treated so as to be imputrescible even after exposure to water. The hair or wool may or may not have been removed
Lime Split ∨
Leather split before it has been tanned
Match ∨
Upholstery that is fashioned out of leather in the seating area and is matched with vinyl for the remainder
Metallized Leather ∨
Leather with a metallic sheen through the use of powders or metallic foils
Milling ∨
To ensure softness after the hides are tanned and finished they are tumbled for several hours
Mineral Tanned ∨
Leather which has been tanned with mineral salts such as aluminium, chromium or zirconium salts
Morocco ∨
Vegetable tanned goat skin with a hard grain pattern
Nappa ∨
A soft full grain leather usually tanned with aluminium and chromium salts
Nubuck ∨
Cow hide buffed to give a velvety nap effect
Oak Bark Tanned ∨
A light weight unbleached bark tanned leather pit tanned at a low temperature for between three to six months
Parchment ∨
Translucent skin dried, cleansed and degreased without any tannage suitable for writing and bookbinding
Patent Leather ∨
Leather impregnated with plastic to make a smooth firm layer
Patina ∨
The shine that develops on leather with time and use
Pearlized Leather ∨
A leather finish with a pearl like lustre
Pigment Finish ∨
A surface finish containing fine suspended pigment particles
Pigmented Leather ∨
Leather which has been dyed then treated with a pigmented top layer and clear top coat
Print ∨
A pattern embossed onto the surface of leather
Protected Leather ∨
Leather which has had chemicals added to protect against soiling
Pull Up ∨
A waxy soft leather which has oils/wax applied. Any scratches or marks will stay until they are rubbed away
Raw Hide ∨
A translucent hide which has been treated to preserve it prior to tanning
Retanned ∨
Leather which has had an additional tannage
Rough Tanned Leather ∨
Leather which has no further process after tanning except being dried out
Russet Leather ∨
Unfinished vegetable tanned cow hide which has been dressed ready for carving, finishing and dying. Sometimes called skirt leather.
Sauvage ∨
A process creating a marbled appearance to leather
Semi Aniline Dyed Leather ∨
Leather with a light pigment finish giving a more transparent effect than fully pigmented
Shadow Finish ∨
Leather hides that have been dyed using aniline to completely permeate the hide with a colour. There is either a transparent coating or slightly coloured finish applied to semi aniline dyed leathers to increase its resistance to wear, soil and light. Semi aniline dyed leather has nearly the softness of full aniline leather, with enhanced resistance to wear, soil and light.
Shrunk(en) Grain ∨
Specially tanned to shrink the grain layer so as to have a surface of uneven folds and valleys
Skin ∨
Leather made from the outer covering of an animal with or without hair
Skiver ∨
Tanned outer or grain split
Snuffed Leather ∨
Leather which has had the top surface removed through a process of abrasion
Split ∨
A single layer from a hide or skin
Suede ∨
Leather which surface has been milled only
Tanning ∨
Process used to preserve hides to create a chrome or veg tannage
Top Finished ∨
Layer of final coating to create levels of colour, gloss to desired level
Top Grain ∨
The finished layer of the hide
Tumbling ∨
Milling of the leather to create desired effects
Upper Leather ∨
Leather produced for the upper part of footwear
Vegetable Tanned ∨
Leather tanned with vegetable tanning agents
Vinyl ∨
A synthetic material made to look like leather
Wet Blue Leather ∨
Chrome tanned leather which has not been further processed and sold in the wet condition